KTM 690 Enduro Freewheel Replacement: DIY Fix & Cost Breakdown

This wasn’t exactly the season opener I had in mind.

The plan was simple: roll out my bike, hit the start button, and head out for that long-awaited first ride of the season.

But the bike had other plans.

Instead of that beautiful single-cylinder thump, I was greeted by... nothing. Just a sad little whine from the starter motor. No engagement, no engine turning over — just a spinning noise like an electric toothbrush with dead batteries.

Great.

The Symptoms — When the Starter Clutch Gives Up

Turns out the freewheel (or starter clutch, depending on what you like to call it) was completely wrecked after last year’s riding. For those unfamiliar: the freewheel sits between the starter motor, inside the main gear and the crankshaft. When you push the start button, the freewheel is supposed to grip and turn the engine over. But when it’s worn out or broken? The starter motor just spins freely — without turning the engine at all.

That’s exactly what happened.

The Parts — Not That Expensive After All

The freewheel part itself (OEM KTM part) cost me about 1200 SEK. But to remove it, I needed a special tool — a puller to remove the main gear from the crankshaft. That one was about 300 SEK.

Not exactly free — but a lot cheaper than a workshop bill.

The Great Tool Hunt

The whole job took me about 3.5 hours. It probably would’ve gone a lot faster if I had all the necessary tools at home… but of course I didn’t.

Halfway through, I realized I didn’t have any Loctite at home. And since I don’t have a car at the moment (my lease expired about a month ago and I haven’t found a new one I like), I ended up borrowing my son’s 125cc and riding into town to pick up what I needed.

Back at home and finally having pulled off the main gear, I realized my existing needle nose pliers were way too flimsy to remove one of the snap rings... Another trip into town!

The Replacement — Step by Step (Highly Simplified)

1. Remove the clutch cover (don’t forget to drain the oil first… don’t ask how I know).
2. Remove the clutch basket with clutch disks. Use four M5x40mm bolt to keep the disks together.
3. Use the puller tool to remove the main gear from the crankshaft.
4. Remove the main gear and take out the old freewheel.
5. Install the new freewheel.
6. Reassemble everything in reverse order. New gasket, new oil, done.

And yes — there was a fair amount of swearing along the way.

Conclusion — Absolutely Worth It

Now the bike fires right up like it should. And honestly — it feels so much better knowing I fixed it myself instead of taking it to a mechanic.

I’ve done a bit of engine work on this bike before — valve checks, replacing shims, stuff like that — but this was my first time taking apart the clutch side and dealing with the freewheel. Always a bit exciting (and slightly nerve-wracking) to dig into parts of the engine you haven’t touched before. But overall, it all went pretty smooth and was actually pretty satisfying to get done.

Total Cost:

All in all, the whole job took me about 3.5 hours — mostly because of those two extra trips into town. But the bike fired right up afterwards, and that sound after weeks of winter silence? Absolutely perfect.

Now I’m just hoping for a long season of trouble-free riding ahead.

Ride safe!